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HEY BASH

REVIEW | Anastasia Beverly Hills Subculture Palette

Tuesday, 17 October 2017


RATING: 2 OUT OF 5
It seems like everyone has an opinion on this palette. 

There has never been a more controversial palette than Anastasia Beverly Hills Subculture Palette.


It's shocking how much backlash Anastasia Beverly Hills have gotten since the palette's release. Beauty bloggers and makeup artists have put out varying opinions. Some good, most bad. Curious, I borrowed my cousin's to see if it was truly as bad as everyone says it is.

So is it?


When the palette was announced, Norvina, the Creative Director of ABH stated, 'If Modern Renaissance had a sister, it would be Subculture.'

Perhaps in looks, but not in quality.

As expected it looks high-end in its packaging. The Subculture Palette's retains the same velvet casing, this time in dark blue, with a magnetic closure. I've addressed the problem when I reviewed the Modern Renaissance palette, the case won't stay pretty for long. Powders stick to velour.

Though the cheapest retailer in Brunei sold it for BND $72, Anastasia Beverly Hills Subculture Palette costs BND $57.50 (US$42) for these 14 shades. An estimate price of BND $5.40 (US$3) per shadow weighing 0.7g (0.02 Oz) each. So it is the same price as Modern Renaissance, for slightly more product.


Subculture was inspired by the Instagram subculture community, that made Anastasia Beverly Hills popular in the first place. 

Described as an essential eye collection with 'grungy mattes' and 'bold metallics' with an 'underground edge'. It features 14 shades, there are 11 matte shades, and 3 metallics including Adoran, Cube and Electric, which are duochromes. Perfect for someone who prefers mattes like me.

What made the shades so attractive were its colour scheme. Rather than warm or cool colours, these were neutral and muted. They reminded me of downtown streets, covered in old graffiti. Its colours rarely pop out, but cohesive in grunge. 

TOP ROW SWATCHES
CUBE   |   DAWN   |   DESTINY   |   ADORN   |   ALL STAR   |   MERCURY   |   AXIS
applied using finger

CUBE   |   Cube is a shimmery duochrome, with a pale pink-to-lavender shift. It felt like a cream than a powder, and had the least payoff on the lids. Even if I used my finger, the shift would fade after two hours.

DAWN   |   A warm peach, Dawn is the closest nude shade in this palette. It works best as a transition shade for light skin tone, and wears the best out of the 14 shades. 

DESTINY   |   What I can describe as a greyish-green. Destiny is a muted olive green that applies patchy against the skin. Best applied with a fluffy brush.

ADORN   |   Adorn applies like a foiled texture, similar to those in Huda Beauty Rose Gold Palette. A creamy copper brown with a metallic sheen. It's slightly chunky and best applied with fingers. 

ALL STAR   |   Somebody once told me, this shade was not good. All Star is a deep reddish plum matte with a warm undertone. The colour, when applied, ends up patchy on the lids.

MERCURY   |   Mercury is an odd colour. A neutral brown-grey, not too warm or too cool. It would act as a transition shade for the bolder colours, and for those with darker skin tones. 

AXIS   |   Axis is a dark teal with a cool undertone. While it applied patchy as a swatch, I found it easy to apply with an incredibly light hand. It diffused well with a blending brush.


BOTTOM ROW SWATCHES
ROXY   |   ELECTRIC   |   FUDGE   |   NEW WAVE   |   UNTAMED   |   EDGE   |   ROWDY
applied using finger

ROXY   |   Roxy is a light peachy-orange with a matte finish. No matter how much I try, the colour does not blend. It ends up looking stagnant and patchy.

ELECTRIC   |   A pale mint-green duo chrome. Electric is best applied with fingers to build from sheer coverage. Like Cube, it applies like a cream and fades just as quickly. 

FUDGE   |   Fudge is strange. The warm, deep brown is a beautiful colour and its velvet formula feels beautiful, it blends out horribly.

NEW WAVE   |   A light-medium orange with yellow undertones. New Wave, and other similar nude-ish colours, seem to be the best in the palette. It blends among the other shades, and applies without much work.

UNTAMED   |   I didn't like Untamed. The medium blue-green shade was difficult to blend and applied patchy. I didn't like the end result on my eye.

EDGE   |   What was supposed to be a medium yellow shade oxidised on my lids. Yes, this colour oxidises. How? When applied onto my eye, Edge darkened into a sour yellow. It retains its opaque matte finish, blending out well but still. How?

ROWDY   |   Rowdy is a deep burgundy, and arguably the darkest shade in the palette. It doesn't blend out well, staying where applied, but lasts for about 6 hours before getting patchy.


EYE  LOOKS   USING   ABH   SUCULTURE   PALETTE

on the lids: Dawn, New Wave, Edge
liner: Fudge, Adorn
under eye: All Star, Roxy

The Anastasia Beverly Hills Subculture Palette is controversial, to say the least.

It should go without saying, all reviews will have some bias. The makeup reviews are no different. Subconscious or otherwise, good or bad, to a minuscule or large extent. As consumers, we can't listen to only one opinion. Rather, we should listen to many sources, and acknowledge their (unconscious) bias. 

Some reviews I found refreshing were RawBeautyKristi, Jordan Hanz, Samantha Ravndahl and Stephanie Nicole. For a further in-depth review, Temptalia is my favourite. Even if I don't agree with their final thoughts, their videos were informative. It is imperative that we remain informed and make our own opinions based on the information. 

That said, I have my own opinion. And in my honest opinion, it's not worth it. 

on the lids: Destiny, Untamed, Electric
under eye: Rowdy

Overall, I love the colours but I dislike the formula.

If the formula was similar to Modern Renaissance, this would have been another hit. Instead, the formula isn't lightly pressed, overtly powder and too strange. I wanted to love this palette, I wanted to create grungy badass looks. Unfortunately, the palette won't let me.

If and when ABH changes the formula, then I would reconsider purchasing the palette. Until then, it's a no from me. 

So would you purchase Subculture?
What are your thoughts on the controversy?

with love,
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London Fashion Week SS18: Day 4 & 5 - PAUL COSTELLOE, JAMIE WEI HUANG, ON|OFF PRESENTS, ARIGATO

Tuesday, 10 October 2017

This post is two weeks late. Oh well. 

I blame it on Fresher's Week, Post-Fashion Week Depression, and general laziness.

Still, the obligation to finish writing Day 4 & 5 lingers. Hence why I condensed them to this one blog post. Day 4 was quiet with only a day presentation while Day 5 was my busiest day with three shows.

Here's how they went!

PAUL COSTELLOE

Paul Costelloe SS18 Collection is such a sweet treat.

Slender models frolicking around the room, sucking on lollies and drinking lemonade as the audience stared in awe. We interacted with the models, discussing the pieces and taking selfies. Everyone had such a blast with the fun 60's inspired presentation.

Their outfits struck me the most, bright colours reminiscent of sugary candy. The pieces brought inspiration from the past era, with similar crisp cuts and loose skirts. This was emphasised with bold earrings and Twiggy-esque makeup. It's a sunny edition for next season's style.

scarf : Aidijuma   |  earrings : Lovisa Jewellery
jumpsuit : Aere   |   shoes : Charles & Keith
bag : Maslea

Perhaps my most comfortable outfit in this season's London Fashion Week. Required as I waddled around Covent Garden in the rain.

For the fourth day, I wore Aere Ginia Jumpsuit in Navy Blue and paired it with Aidijuma Satin-Toned Scarf. The light blues paired well with each other, whilst contrasting the gold ombre and Lovisa Heart Earrings. As a final touch, I finished the look with a Maslea bag, embroidered with traditional Malay design.

JAMIE WEI HUANG


The first show of the last day was Jamie Wei Huang.

Her Spring/Summer 18 Collection was inspired by indigenous Taiwanese tribes. These themes were highlighted in the collection through the designs. Wei Huang gave a creative twist on classic designs, open backs and sharps cuts found in her pieces.

In addition, the colour scheme focused on light pastels. This kept the focus on the structure and stripes, which she used to demonstrate the themes. More than anything else, this collection felt like a 'dream.'


ON | OFF PRESENTS


ON | OFF Presents invited me to their runway, where they showcased three upcoming international designers. Hosted in LFW's 180 Strand, it was exhilarating to say the least. The three designs were unique, eye-catching and just plain awesome.


CAPLANENTWISLE


When CAPLANENTWISLE walked the runway, the first thing I thought was 'diversity.' 

Their models were not the standard, and I loved it. People of colour, some with curves, broad noses or wild hair. They strut down the runway, proud of their looks with the bold pieces. It was the best representation of inclusivity from a brand, highlighting the collection. 

The collection itself was kept androgynous and non-conformist, with no traditional structure in the designs. Oversized coats and shirts hang on the models. It was truly a collection for the reckless youth.

 
 

LUKE ANTHONY ROONEY


Luke Anthony Rooney SS18 Collection was the most elegant and subdued of the three collections. Models in minimal makeup and well-applied paint, matching the creative clothes as they walked the runway.

The stripes reminded me of paint against traditional structure. With the slip dresses and slim fit design, he creates an overall sophisticated but playful look.

JACK IRVING


Oh. My. Golly. Yes.

Jack Irving SS18 Collection is out of this world. These pieces reminded me of deep sea creatures, lurking under the ocean. The metallic green-blue hues makes every single extravagant piece stand out. In addition to its already crazy design.

It feels like I can find these pieces in the new Aquaman movie. And I can't wait to see it. 


CURATED CROWD x AXEL ARIGATO

Our last event of the day was a private viewing of brands, created with the help of crowdfunding. 

Curated Crowd x Axel Arigato celebrates the power of the crowd in nurturing creative autonomy, social sharing and authentic creativity. Similar to Kickstarter and Patreon, Curated Crowd uses the audience for support, creating the designs. 

One of their successful projects were Axel Arigato, a sneaker company which caught my eye. The nude and soft colours look lovely, matching any streetwear look. 

scarf : Verona Collection   |   earrings : Accessorize   |   choker : New Look
coat : KAVA   |   hoodie : KAVA   |   dress : Zara
leggings : Zara   |   shoes : Zara

Saving the best outfit for last. Truly my favourite outfit from London Fashion Week, I felt so bad ass.

The whole look focused on making KAVA pieces outstanding. The Kava Cropped Hoodie features images of Brunei's landmarks while the Oversized Coat featured a handprinted design. Suffice to say, it was the little bit of home I needed in London. Representing Brunei in such a cool event.

Underneath, I wore a basic Zara Black Swing Dress and a pair of Zara Pleather Leggings to provide some more texture to the look.

A video will be coming soon. As soon as I finish editing. Until then...

What did you think of London Fashion Week?

with love,
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Hi! My name's Bash and welcome to my online corner.

Born in Brunei, I'm a 22-year-old law grad with a love for writing and videos. This is where I share my thoughts, just waiting for someone to say Hey.

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